Cylinder Mower
The cylinder mower is used to cut the greens and any nursery grass. It should not normally be used to cut the tops of the banks or surrounds.
Maintaining a Cylinder Mower
The mower is designed to produce a perfectly flat cut on the surface of the green. Incorrect settings will cause the cut to be shallow or deeper on one side causing ridging or stripes.
It is important to carry out regular checks before the cutting program begins.
If the mower is moved over rough terrain without the proper cradle, then the settings must again be checked as follows:
- Check and adjust the cylinder blades to approximate with the bottom blade.
- Check height of cut.
- Check height of teaser comb.
- Check lubrication points are not dry.
- Check chain tensions.
- Check rear roller alignment.
- Check electrical connections.
When moving the mower from the shed to the green or from one green to the next the settings must always be checked before cutting.
Incorrect settings will cause the cut to be shallow or deeper on one side causing ridging or stripes.
Maintenance and Adjustment of Protea Mower
Before setting the mower one must ensure that it is disconnected from the power supply.
Maintenance should where possible be carried out before each use of the mower. The spiral blades of the rotating cylinder sweep over the front top of the bottom blade acting like a guillotine.
The leading edge of the cylinder and top edge of the bottom blade must be kept sharp at all times. Any burred edges must be dressed with a file, or back lapping should be carried out to ensure sharp cutting.
From the diagram it will be noticed that the bottom blade is set behind the centre line of the cutting cylinder. This fact coupled with the fan action of the cylinder produces a brushing effect to lift the grass up against the bottom blade as it moves over the green.
The blades of the rotating cylinder sweep over the top edge of the bottom blade acting like sharp scissors.
The cylinder blades wear as in the diagram below.
When the blades are blunt it is natural to screw the cylinder down harder onto the bottom blade.
This causes a rubbing effect and wears the blades more quickly as shown below.
A blunt mower causes shredded grass, see picture below.
When the blades become blunt on the cylinder it is possible on most machines to reverse the cylinder. As a rule one should always fit a bottom blade when worn or when reversing a cylinder.
After installing the blades check across the full width of the blade for cut and if necessary shim the bottom blade with paper.
The mower should now be back lapped by inserting a fine A – grade water based carborandum powder and turning the cylinder in the opposite direction to cut. When the back lapping has been completed, wash off any excess powder. The mower must then be reset.
Setting the Depth of the Cut
The depth of cut is set according to the type of grass on the green and the time of year. It should generally not be below 4 mm/
After the setting bar is set to the required depth and the screw has been locked, the bar is then inserted with the screw on top of the cutting edge of the bottom blade and the rear rests on the bottom of the rear roller, as in the diagram.
If the bottom blade is badly worn a false setting will be achieved as shown below.
Cutting height adjustment is carried out by means of adjusting the front roller up or down.
Lay the mower back on the handle. Fig 1 shows the front roller locking nuts on both sides of the mower. These nuts are loosened before the height adjustment is carried out.
Adjustment is carried out by turning the locknuts up or down as per fig 1 on left and right side of machine.
Ensure that the correct cut height is set on the adjusting bar screws prior to inserting between rollers.
Place the height adjustment bar as per figure 2 above.
An adjusting bar as per Figure 3 can be made up as follows and will ensure a more accurate setting preventing “out of square” alignment.
The frame can be made from 25mm x 5 mm angle iron and must be perfectly level when constructed.
a = Width of mower minus approx 50mm from edge on both sides.
b = Distance from centre of front roller to rear drum roller. (Same as bar issued)
c = Distance from centre of front roller to edge of bottom blade
d = 6mm Threaded screw hole positioned approx 120mm in centre of cross beam from outer edges. Screws are same as on adjustment bar. Lock nuts are fitted to adjusting screws. Prior to placing bracket in place the front roller is loosened.When the frame is positioned on the mower with the adjusting screws set correctly for the cutting height, the front roller is put on to the angle iron frame cross beam. The locking nuts for front roller are then tightened. This will ensure no striping or ridging when cutting.
After the cut height has been set the cylinder contact with the bottom blade must be checked. Adjustment is carried out by slacking the locknut on the cylinder hanger clamp as in Figure 4.
Always adjust cylinder to bear lightly on bottom blade or excessive wear on cylinder and bottom blade will take place also causing unnecessarily heavy load on the motor.
Once adjustments have been carried out ensure that all bolts and nuts are locked.
Reversing the Cylinder
When reversing the cylinder never remove the cylinder bearing hangers. Remove the bearing caps only. The caps must not be changed over and must be replaced in its original position. (Mark them prior to removing).
Chains and Drive Chain Tension Adjusters
Adjustment is carried out by means of loosening tensioners as indicated above and sliding the tensioner in the desired direction. Chains must never be adjusted tightly. It is advisable to leave the cylinder chain with a little slackness so that a slight adjustment of the cylinder can be carried out without having to readjust the chain each time.
Clutch
The clutch assembly as shown above must also be checked on a regular basis.
To be certain that the clutch is fully engaged without possibility of slip, there should be approximately 35mm free movement at the operating lever knob. This adjustment is carried out by adjusting the self locking nut as per the figure above.
Use medium grade oil to lubricate clutch at lubrication point as seen in figure above.
Deflector Plates and Scrapers
Deflector plates are set to ensure that the grass cut is thrown into the bin and must always be checked before mowing to prevent cuttings being left on the surface of the green. A grass trough on side of mower must be always be in place when mowing as this will prevent dirt build up on the rear roller also collecting finer cuttings.
Setting the grass deflector plate is provided for and should be adjusted to obtain a good throw of grass into the bin.
Scrapers
The roller scrapers must also be set in order to remove grass or soil.
Teasing Rake or Brush
The teasing rake or brush lifts out dry thatch and runners.
Other Considerations
Beware of the following:
- Setting the cylinder too tight against the bottom blade, causing strain on the motor.
- Setting the chains too tight, as this will bring rapid wear of chains, sprockets and overload to the motor.
- Excessive lubrication to clutch housing causes slip, slow speed and overheating.
- Teaser too low tears the turf and overloads the motor.
- Electric cable too light causes low voltage and can damage the motor as well as the cable itself.
- Electric cable wrapped around handle of machine or extension drum acts as a transformer and can result in the overheating and damage to the cable.
- Deflector plate incorrectly set.
- Faulty bearings on rear roller will cause mower to pull to one side.
- Blunt blades will cause bruising of the grass or shredding.
Rear Roller
To check wear on roller bushes, after placing chalk line on roller, the person checking must now align their eye with the frame at top.
Roller is now pulled back slowly and chalk line should be aligned with metal frame.
Should the line not align with frame the bushes are worn, this will also when the mower is in operation tend to pull to one side.
Cylinder Contact to Bottom Blade.
Bottom Blades
When reversing a cylinder always change the bottom blade. Do not try to sharpen a bottom blade.
Back Lapping
Cylinder mowers that are properly sharpened cut the grass better and cleaner. Cylinder mowers use five twisted blades that spin past a bottom cutting blade to cut the grass. Whilst there are a number of different methods to sharpen the blades, back lapping is one of the easiest methods and results in uniformly sharp blades.